Have you ever considered how brands such as Zara, H&M, Uniqlo, and Shein are able to release new collections at such quick paces and low prices? The reality is that these brands have traded ethical practices for keeping up with rapid trends. It isn’t magic that’s behind such low prices — it’s low wages. The fast fashion industry’s sole priority being high turnover translates to corners being cut wherever possible to make it happen. The price of an $8 dress from Shein is not cheap, and it’s the underpaid workers and our planet that are paying for it.
Inspired by the mass-production, quick-turnover business model of the clothing retailer Zara, The New York Times coined the term “fast fashion” in the 1980s. However, its origins can be traced back to the industrial revolution, with the introduction of factories and textile machines that allowed for quick manufacturing of large quantities of clothing. The surplus from this mass production model lowered the cost of making clothing, slowly beginning to allow for increased consumption over the following decades. It wasn’t until the 1970s when the exploitative business model of fast fashion (though it wasn’t yet called that), began to emerge. Many clothing retailers began exporting their production to low and middle income countries with little to no labour laws, allowing them to pay workers less. Ever since, companies participating in this unsustainable business model continue to drive prices lower and production quicker in an attempt to stay ahead of competitors. The undercover crew in the 2022 documentary Inside The Shein Machine discovered workers were forced to endure extreme hours at a daily salary of $20, which would be docked if any garments had mistakes. Today fast fashion has become the norm, with people now buying 60 per cent more clothing than they did two decades ago yet keeping items for half as long, according to the consulting firm McKinsey & Company.
According to the UN Environment Programme, the fashion industry is the second biggest consumer of water, after agriculture, and produces approximately 20 percent of the world’s wastewater in the process of dyeing textiles. Furthermore, as it is the cheaper option to natural fibres, many fast fashion companies use synthetic fibres such as nylon, polyester, and acrylic that are not biodegradable. A study by the International Union for Conservation of Nature reported that about 35 percent of the microplastics in the ocean come from washing synthetic textiles.
As consumers become increasingly aware of the dark truths behind the fast fashion industry, there has been a growing movement towards sustainable fashion. According to a 2021 report from investment firm UBS, the fast fashion industry could see a 10 to 30 per cent decline in revenue over the next decade due to increasing consumer awareness of its problematic practices. Furthermore, the secondhand clothing market is expected to double in revenue from 2022 to 2027 due to rapidly increasing demand. These trends indicate that consumer spending habits can play a role in whether unethical industry practices continue. Therefore, choosing not to buy fast fashion is an opportunity to support the elimination of the fast fashion business model.
But in a world where it’s become so normalized, fast fashion can be hard to identify, especially when considering the many different criteria used to assess sustainable clothing production. However, extremely low prices, rapid turnover, and cheap materials are generally good indicators. Some pretty big brands to avoid in addition to those already listed would be Fashion Nova, Urban Outfitters, Mango, GAP, Hot Topic, Pacsun, ASOS, and Forever 21 to name only a small handful. For some more sustainable alternatives check out websites such as Good On You or Sustain your Style.
In addition to avoiding purchasing from fast fashion brands like these, you can also simply try to consume less and make the most out of what you already own. A trick I often like to use to ensure I am consuming responsibly is to consider how many times I am realistically going to wear an item before I buy it and how long it will last. Purchasing from sustainable, ethical brands or shopping secondhand are also great ways to avoid supporting the fast fashion industry.
A local resource, Cyanic Clothing, is a Canadian clothing company founded in Toronto that promotes ethical manufacturing through wholesale clothing and social campaigns. All of Cyanic’s products are locally and ethically made using sustainable and recyclable materials, making it a great option for customized clothing. Burch Smith, Founder of Cyanic, emphasized that the company’s mission is “merging eco-conscious choices and cost-effective solutions.” Their campaigns are centered around education and the promotion of ethical fashion, as well as providing opportunities for participants to give back to their communities, with proceeds being donated to local organizations and shelters. Future event details can be found by visiting @cyanicclothing on Instagram.
For students interested in learning more about sustainable fashion, there is no shortage of opportunities on campus. Course offering ENBUS 315: Fashion, Consumption, and Sustainability, analyzes the intersection of fashion and consumption, with a focus on textiles and cosmetics. There are also several ongoing campaigns such as WUSA Thrift, and ENVigorate’s annual SWAP shop and fashion show.
